Without a doubt, Tam Cốc is the tourist hub of Ninh Binh, Close to most of the main tourist attractions, English skills are high and western type accommodation and restaurants abound. Ninh Binh residents often refer to Van Lam village (the main town of Tam Coc) as “the international village” as international tourism has exerted a huge influence there.
But it is the hospitality and generosity of the locals that make it special.
In some ways, people still consider Tam Coc “a hidden green gem,” often overlooked in the mad rush to the major Vietnamese draw cards of Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Ha Long Bay, Hue and Hoi An. However, unlike many of those places, developers have not yet overwhelmed Tam Coc with luxury apartments, mega-hotels, nightclubs, and mass commercialism. If you want to chill and experience a truly spectacular, Eco-friendly and relatively untouched part of rural Vietnam, Tam Coc is calling for you. Think Bali rather than Pattaya.
International Fame
UNESCO designated Tam Coc as part of the Tràng An Scenic Landscape Complex and recognized it as a World Heritage Site. Many people do not know that filmmakers “discovered” Tam Coc after they filmed some sequences here for the Oscar-winning movie Indochine in 1993.
Vietnam was just starting to open up to International tourism at the time and although well known to domestic visitors, rather neglected by overseas visitor. Local residents saw the film as a huge opportunity to promote and expand Tam Coc’s unique features as a worthy destination for even the most jaded of international travelers.
Chu Văn Thim, the 90-year-old manager of nearby Thái Vi Temple, says that people believe the sea surrounded Tam Coc millions of years ago, with the tops of the now-iconic karst mountains rising like small islands above the surface. Over hundreds of millennia, the sea gradually receded but left behind an intricate river system that built up a heavy layer of alluvium. When humans first arrived some 10,000 years ago, they found that the sea had transformed into a lush forest. Locals once called Tam Coc “Vi Vân Sơn,” which roughly translates to “a forest as beautiful as floating clouds.”
Those earliest settlers found the forests a rich source of animals and plants to forage. As agriculture developed, the rich land with its deep alluvial plains and an abundance of fresh water sources invited habitation while the Karst mountains themselves, pocked marked with hundreds of caves were a natural protection against the willful climate and wild animals and provided a perfect natural housing.
Civilization Arrives
Gradually, those early cave dwellers grew in number and involved into a strong and dynamic civilization. The entire area became famous as an abundant land much sought after by invaders from southern China and the thriving Khmer civilization to the south west . The earliest legends speak of numerous warlords and clans, of gods and magical events and terrible wars and divine intervention.
Storytellers passed down these early legends orally from generation to generation. Necessarily so as no written language existed until the Han/Xin Dynasties turned the land into a vassal state. Even then, much of the early history is in Chinese script as successive Southern Chinese Dynasties invaded and ruled here for 1000 years (approximately 1 to 1000 AD in the Gregorian calendar).
That changed when King Dinh Bo Linh united the warlords and pushed back the newly arisen Song Dynasty. At that turbulent time, China also had massive internal changes and the rebellious vassal state to the far south was the least of their problems. Dinh Bo Linh took advantage of the unrest to proclaim Dai Co Viet as a tribute country of the Song, rather than a vassal state and in doing so, the history of modern Vietnam was born.
King Trần Thái Tông
So it was that Dinh Bo Linh (aka King Đinh Tiên Hoàng) became the first emperor to unify Vietnam. As mentioned previously, Hoa Lu became the capital of the new nation of Dai Co Viet in 968 AD. Nearby Tam Coc slumbered away as an important farming community supporting the new capitol until the Trần dynasty.
When King Trần Thái Tông (1218-1277) visited here to admire the gorgeous mountain landscapes, he decided it had perfect Feng Shui to settled into his monastic retirement. But those ancient Kings rarely abandoned their former lives and the good King Tran immediately began construction of Vũ Lâm “Palace” as both a residence and a stronghold against the newly emergent Mongol empire.
Under his continued direction, King Trần Thái Tông also encouraged the exiles of the previous war to settle here. These battle weary troops built hamlets and expanded the road system while at the same time constructing temples. Builders constructed many public buildings during this time, and the people of Van Lam fortified the area against the forays of Kublai Khan’s armies. So much for a quiet retirement!
A Noble Retreat
When peace returned, the stunning scenery of Tam Coc attracted many high officials. Tam Coc rapidly became an important meeting center for foreign dignitaries and formal court presentations. It was also a perfect place for mandarins and rulers to live while conducting day to day business in nearby Hoa Lu. During the Mongol Empire (1285), It also became a center for resistance. King Trần Thái Tông’s son and grandson eventually repulsed the Mongol – Yuan invasion using Tam Coc as the strategic center of operations. Interestingly, it played a similar role centuries later during World War 2 and the conflict with Japan.
Tourism
These days most visitors converge on the Tam Coc/Van Lam boating station and the riverine tours through the caves and rice fields of the heavily cultivated countryside. Tam Coc translated means “three caves” and the boat ride/s are an efficient, enjoyable and exciting way of visiting these iconic grottoes. They also provide a unique opportunity to get up close and personal with the lifeblood of the region, the Ngo Dong River. Floating along this majestic waterway gives visitors unparalleled interaction with those famous giant limestone outcrops Northern Vietnam is famous for.
The Three Caves
The three caves that give Tam Coc its name are as follows:
Hang Cả (Fish cave)
At 127m long and nearly 20m broad, Hang Ca is a “wet” cave that has worn its way through a karst outcrop to allow entry to watercraft. Reportedly, Hang Ca contains more stalactites and stalagmites than any other in the area, making it one of the largest and most visited. Its high ceiling keeps it above flood levels, even during torrential rains. As such, the river never reaches the top and allows boats to continue operating while other caves are closed.
Opposite the cave, a small outcrop called Vườn Am (Garden Island) receives a favorable aspect according to Feng Shui. The island once housed a training temple for monks, which later relocated to Thai Vi temple. People still regard the area as a peaceful spot to fish and write poetry – a revered art form among the Vietnamese noble class.
Hang Hai (Second Cave)
“Hai” in VIetnamese means two. So Hang Hai is quite literally the “Second Cave”. About one kilometer long, a variety of stalactites festoon the roof of the cave, captivating visitors’ imaginations for countless centuries. It is located about 1km from the Fish cave, is about 60m wide in places and is navigable for most of the year. It will be included in most tours, just check for local conditions.
Hang Ba (Third Cave)
The third cave and is adjacent to the Hai cave. Somewhat smaller and lower than the other two it can be closed to boat traffic in times of heavy flooding. Filmmakers shot parts of the blockbuster King Kong (2015) here – notably the scene where King Kong jumps into the water. If you are extremely lucky (or unlucky, depending on your viewpoint), you might encounter the wild cats that inhabit this area.
After passing Ba cave there are several karst mountains and a small “village” of stilt houses. Last time we were there, there were toilets and refreshments for visitors – a good place to rest and review your adventure while still surrounded by the beauty of Tam Coc.
Women pilot many of the boats, following the local custom of rowing with their feet rather than their arms. Presumably, they use this technique to keep their hands free for fishing. In these modern times, it also gives them the opportunity to display the embroidered wares that they will often offer to their passengers.Or, just as likely, to scroll through their Facebook pages.
Boating
Unfortunately, waterborne “touts” often interrupt the boat rides to offer drinks and souvenirs, usually at inflated prices.The trip can be hot and tiring, especially during the middle of the day so many will find this a convenient resource. Still others who had the forethought to wear appropriate loose clothing, a hat and bring bottled water, will find it an interruption to their idyllic journey. Unlike Trang An, at the end of the trip the women pilots will generally expect a “tip” for their efforts. As tipping is not yet in general practice in Vietnam, we leave it up to you.
In addition to the boat trip to the three caves there are plenty of other attractions. Bich Dong Pagoda, Thai Vi Temple, Thien Huong Cave and Linh Coc pagoda to name a few. As is often the case, the journey itself will be as important as the destination. Hopefully you will get to enjoy the stunning scenery and friendly locals as you make your own pace through this very ancient and special part of Vietnam.
Van Lam
The wharf area is at the center of Van Lam Village, which serves as the main town of Tam Coc. Offering a variety of international restaurants, souvenir shops, fashion houses and so on, it is very much geared towards the English speaking crowd. As such, you should not find it difficult to navigate. Just be aware of the various scams and petty theft that occur in any tourist destination the world over. Keep your valuables hidden and secure, don’t flash around money, don’t leave valuable unattended and so on. Vietnamese are generally honest, affable folk but such concentrations of newly arrived visitors with cash to spend will always attract some of the worse elements of any society.
You’ll find mornings ideal for exploring, though locals often have limited time to chat. In the afternoon, as the sun dips behind the limestone mountains and lights and lanterns begin to glow, locals usually have more time to walk, talk, and learn about the diverse customs and habits of their visitors. Alternatively, you may come across groups of students who want to get to know you and converse in English with you – an often fun and appreciated form of cultural interaction.
Travel Tips
Tam Coc is only around 7km from Ninh Binh city however there is a “short” way and a long looping journey through Trang An. GRAB, the Vietnamese version of Uber is often the cheapest, easier way to move around, with its fixed pricing and journey tracking. No credit card is necessary as they are happy to take cash. For independent travelers you may get there by following Google Maps to Van Lam, Ninh Hải commune, Hoa Lư district, Ninh Binh province.
Bus
There are many day tours from Hanoi to Tam Coc. Visitors can also choose a two or three day visit that connects with their journey to other destinations. Getting to Ninh Binh itself is quite simple, with a variety of choices. From Hanoi it will take 2 hours to Ninh Binh city from either the My Đình or Giáp Bát bus stations, the fare is from 80,000-100,000VND. A popular alternative are the many “luxury” vans that carry 6-8 people in plush recliner seats and can often pick you up at your hotel in Hanoi and drop you at your hotel in Tam Coc for between 200-400,000 VND.
Train
Ninh Binh also has a modern railway station (Ga) with several trains each day heading south from Hanoi or North from Hue, Da Nang or Saigon itself. Booking is easy via the official Vietnam Rail site. However you will need to pickup (and pay for) tickets at the starting Railway station the day prior to departure. You will also need to present your passport and they will only accept payment in VND. Be careful about third party sites, especially during peak holiday periods.
Drive
Self-drive, either by motorbike or car is an option but Ninh Binh is a fair distance to and from other torusim “capitols”, often along busy main highways, some of which will not allow motorbike traffic or require a toll and generally not very scenic. Remember to have Google Translate and Maps or their equivilent ready at all times.
Accomodation
There are many hotels, homestays and apartments available in Van Lam or beyond. There will always be something to suit a visitor’s budget and needs but way too many choices to list here. You’ll get the best results by using online booking companies—or, if you’re fortunate, by having a local book for you. Since Tam Coc is a popular destination, expect large crowds during peak periods. Book ahead.
